All the images on this page can be clicked to view the larger version of the picture.
NOTE:I didn't rotate/move the pump or remove/loosen the full power screw. I wanted those settings to stay right where they were. I came up with a trick to get the pump cover back on.
DieselTruckResource.Com FAQ : 3200 RPM Gov Spring Installation Instructions
Here's the pump before starting. Nothing removed
Here we see the AFC cover removed and you can see the diaphram. The fuel pin is connected to this and is underneth it. Mark the position of the diaphram by using a sharpie. Place a mark on the housing and the metal center so it can be installed back in the same position. This is important!
Above, the diaphram has been lifted out and removed. Your looking at the spring and starwheel. Lift the spring out and place it to the side on your table or tray.
Here's a couple of shots of the fuel pin which is under the diaphram. You can see what everybody talks about when they say it's tapered and it's offset having a deeper side to it.
8mm allen wrench inserted in throttle.
Remove the external springs for the throttle and the kickdown. Remove the 8mm screw ( Note it's hollow and screwed down over the throttle shaft in the pump. Underneath it there are 2 washers. A small metal washer and a larger plastic washer that fits around the diameter of the smaller metal one. Take these off and place off to the side.
This is important. Look at the picture above. The throttle shaft has a slot in it. The bottom throttle lever has index marks on it. WRITE this down on your notes (printout of the DTR tech section install instructions). On this one it's 4 down and 1 up.
Next is the return spring. It's made up of 3 parts. There are 2 plastic parts (top and bottom) and the spring itself. Note how the lower plastic piece locks the spring into the hook on the left. Lift these off in one piece.
Here's the spring components
Above your looking at the bare throttle shaft. You can see 2 of the pump tops allen screws. On the right you can see both the low idle and the high idle screws. Make note of the measurement or the number of threads showing so you can can get it back in the ballpark. Remove the 2 jam nuts on the high idle and remove the screw. Place the screw to the side. You can use the 2 nuts to move the low idle forward.
Spray the low idle screw with some WD-40 or PB blaster. Loosen the jam nut on the back side to about 1/4 from the end.
Put the 2 jum nuts you took off the high idle onto the front of the low idle screw on the throttle shaft side. Now you can use them to turn the low idle screw forward either with a wrench or by hand.
Here you can see the 5mm allen wrench that I shortened to get the back/inside cover screw. Remove all 4 allen screws.
At this point you should be able to remove the cover. Carefully lift the pump cover and rotate it to the right (towards fender from front of truck). In the one fullzsieze pic I have highlighted the "top hat" and the spring itself. The tophat slides through the lever and the spring hooks into it. In order to remove the spring/tophat I used the following method
Place your index finger on your left hand in the back of the tophat holding it into the lever. With your right hand use a set of needle nose pliers and unhook the spring. Carefully remove the tophat and place it to the side. At this point you cover should be free and you can carry it over to your bench ( or a cooler in my case...to much crap on the workbench lol)
Pump top with the full power screw still turned in (top left) and original spring still installed
"Tophat" setup. It consists of a pin, spring and a cupped washer.
Taking a peek in the pump. The wedges in the center section are the governor weights.
Here's a comparison shot of the 2 springs. Stock on top and 3200 on bottom
3 shots of the pump cover with the new spring installed. In the first fullsized shot I have circled the "foot" everyone is talking about grinding off ;). Mines still intact for now.
All the assorted parts that have been removed.
If this lever has moved, click it back where you need it to reinstall the cover. This gave me a hard time 'till I figured out it needed to be moved. I must have moved it cause it clicked back when I pushed it.
Here I'm holding the tophat in postion and I have hooked the spring back through the eye using needlenose pliers
Here's my trick to get the cover back on with the full power adjustment screw still in place. Hook a thin wire around the lever. Pull the wire forward and level with the surface of the pump top moving the lever inward. Place the cover on top and get the rear inside screw with the bushing in place. Lower the cover almost the whole wahy and then let go of the wire and pull it out. Install the 4 allen screws that hold the cover on.
Install the throttle shaft spring assembly. Hook the bottom spring hook in and then the lower plastic piece will hold it in place. Pull up on the throttle shaft to get it in position.
Using needlenose pliers pull the spring around.
Install the bottom lever to the correct clocked position using the notes you took. Line up the slot in the shaft with the index marks on the lever
Install the 2 washers. The steel one first and then the plastic one. Make sure the plastic one is around the steel one. This thing has a mind of it's own. Watch it at every step while installing the top lever. It it sits on top of the steel one, the shaft will not be lifted into postition and the shaft will leak when it's all back together. Trust me ;)
I used some emery cloth and cleaned the bolt and the inside surface of the upper throttle shaft. It was not moving freely on my pump. I then greased the bolt and placed it back in the lever.
The top lever back in place.
Place the diaphram back in place using your sharpie marks. I marked 2 positions for the photos.
Another shot of the diapram with the positions labeled in orange on fullsize version.
Here's something that I had problems with. The TPS was binding up after I got everything backl together. Taking it apart I noticed the small bolt that is in the round plastic piece was bottomed out. I turned it out a full turn so the adjustments will be easier. I also noticed there is a section cut out of the bracket that only allows the TPS to turn a certain amount. Holding it in the bracket and cycling the throttle low to high, if you have you high idle set higher, it will bind up slightly at full throttle. I'm going to cut more travel into the bracket when I get a chance